ES4 Error 10

Jarecbc
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2019 3:35 pm

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby Jarecbc Sat Oct 12, 2019 10:00 pm

Flash ESC with fulldump using an ST Link. Do some research, and you'll find the method :)
Would you be able to elaborate on where to find this info? I've been searching but haven't found anything of use other than this wiring diagram:

https://imgur.com/a/heG6ETh

showing where to solder each pin.

Is there anything else you need to do (like remove any capacitors)? Also would it be possible to use OpenOCD as opposed to fulldump? I'm assuming TVCC is 3.3v, but I'm not totally sure, so let me know if you have any info (I have the knockoff ST-LINK V2 suggested in the dashboard flashing guide, which doesn't include a TVCC pin). Thanks for the help by the way.
The schematic you found is indeed correct and it's the same one I use ;)
There's nothing special to know, just solder and flash. TVCC is indeed 3.3V.
As for the flashing part, fulldump refers to a fulldump file of the DRV (bootloader + firmware + user settings), and you can flash it with OpenOCD or STM32 utility.

Good afternoon I would like to know what is the correct scheme for welding because I see in the photo that indicate some red circles but it does not indicate which capacitors have to be removed and on pages later I have seen another user who has the same doubt. There is also another image with different indications. So my question is, where do I have to drop exactly, and if there is a capacitor to be removed, which of all is it? I would appreciate it very much please. especially if I could upload a photo with more precise indications. Not just a few circles. Thank you
moiskey
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2019 12:54 pm

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby moiskey Sun Oct 13, 2019 6:41 pm



Would you be able to elaborate on where to find this info? I've been searching but haven't found anything of use other than this wiring diagram:

https://imgur.com/a/heG6ETh

showing where to solder each pin.

Is there anything else you need to do (like remove any capacitors)? Also would it be possible to use OpenOCD as opposed to fulldump? I'm assuming TVCC is 3.3v, but I'm not totally sure, so let me know if you have any info (I have the knockoff ST-LINK V2 suggested in the dashboard flashing guide, which doesn't include a TVCC pin). Thanks for the help by the way.
The schematic you found is indeed correct and it's the same one I use ;)
There's nothing special to know, just solder and flash. TVCC is indeed 3.3V.
As for the flashing part, fulldump refers to a fulldump file of the DRV (bootloader + firmware + user settings), and you can flash it with OpenOCD or STM32 utility.

Good afternoon I would like to know what is the correct scheme for welding because I see in the photo that indicate some red circles but it does not indicate which capacitors have to be removed and on pages later I have seen another user who has the same doubt. There is also another image with different indications. So my question is, where do I have to drop exactly, and if there is a capacitor to be removed, which of all is it? I would appreciate it very much please. especially if I could upload a photo with more precise indications. Not just a few circles. Thank you
I would be very grateful if you can help bring these drivers to life. For my part I have one totally dead because of bad flashing. greetings and thank you very much
User avatar
UgloBuglo
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2019 9:40 pm
Location: Sweden

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby UgloBuglo Mon Oct 14, 2019 9:28 pm

Good afternoon I would like to know what is the correct scheme for welding because I see in the photo that indicate some red circles but it does not indicate which capacitors have to be removed and on pages later I have seen another user who has the same doubt. There is also another image with different indications. So my question is, where do I have to drop exactly, and if there is a capacitor to be removed, which of all is it? I would appreciate it very much please. especially if I could upload a photo with more precise indications. Not just a few circles. Thank you
All info is in the second post of this thread.
Why make it more complicated than it is?

Nowhere does it tell you to remove a capacitor, so why do you want to do that?
Also, why care about the red circles? The needed information about the solder points is in the picture too.
moiskey
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2019 12:54 pm

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby moiskey Fri Oct 18, 2019 3:38 pm

I can connect the controller, but I have the following error
Image
please help
Blackass
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2019 10:15 pm

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby Blackass Sat Oct 19, 2019 10:19 pm

Hi, i am trying to flash ninebot esc with st link. Just getting Error: init mode failed (unable to connect to the target). Got a red light on the esc and a green flashing. What to do?
mircam
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:35 pm

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby mircam Wed Oct 30, 2019 3:05 pm

moiskey, blackass I can help you with chip programming. I found a way to connect to STM32 if flashing was wrong for some reason. You can find me on discord mircamen#3886
barthchris
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2019 12:46 am

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby barthchris Sat Oct 23, 2021 6:30 pm

I successfully flashed a controller and then went to connect and got the Error 10 message. I came to this thread and figured i need to flash the control board in the tube as well. I have two brand new bird ES4s. I cannot for the live of me get the damn wires to stick to the control board. any suggestions?

There is a layer of clear conformal coating on the PCBs. Basically, it's an acrylic or silicon type clear coat used to help protect against the elements. It helps to LIGHTLY scrape it off before trying to solder anything to the pads. It can be burned off with the soldering iron but the tip needs to be cleaned right after as the residues interfere with thermal transfer between the iron and the pad. Actually, burning it off is a bad idea without extra flux.

Speaking of flux.... I can't stress this enough. Flux is your friend! Even if the solder has a flux core a little extra flux works wonders. Flux makes a huge difference and will remove so much frustration beginners have with soldering even if they are using a cheap iron. Needs to be electronic flux NOT plumbing flux. This will last a long time https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Pretinning the wire and the pad is essential as well. When both are pre-tinned all it takes is a momentary touch of a soldering iron(with a clean, freshly tinned tip) to flow both together. Should be no more than a second or two. Trying to solder a wire to a pad without either being tinned first is like beating your head against the wall.
barthchris
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2019 12:46 am

Re: ES4 Error 10

Postby barthchris Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:23 pm

Guys I’ve learned a lot about this and I’d like to share my findings. I've got most everything of it figured out. No more error 27, even the headlight issue where when you have it on the scooter is slower. Cruise control, CFW, Control over lights in ninebot app, All 3 driving modes when you double press power button.. Basically, the works!

First of all I would never try and solder those tiny connections. Way too time consuming and also too risky of something going wrong. I use a BDM stand with Probe needles you can simply place where they are needed and flash it with ease and not needing a single solder. I will attach pic of it. Can be found at aliexpress or other Chinese marketplaces.

Everything works. Flash Chinese $20 dash using the method found here and flash factory esc this way.

Steps
Order $20 dash amazon or eBay
Dissasemble scooters remove esc

Order bdm stand: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... opping-ads

Flash dash using oocd
Flash esc using stlink utility. To fix error 27 In the "address" field after flashing type 0x1ffff7e8 and press enter then take a pic of 0,4,8 columns and now press ctrl+P and program then go back to address box type 0x801c1b4 and press enter and now fill in the 0,4,8 boxes with the pic you took just press tab in between each box. As you press tab, it will write the changes to the ESC each time automatic.
Reassemble everything
Fire up ninebot flasher and flash serial change firmware and change serial put 4th digit a T instead of R
Once you've updated the serial your lights work and error 35 will be gone.
Now either update your firmware with ninebot app or cfw with ninebot flasher in windows.

Headlight speed issue is caused by an internal breaker tripping (self resetting) and allowing the power draw from the headlight to distort the handlebar controls and thus the scooter goes slower. Easiest solution is to either unplug it, buy a more power friendly LED, or place a 33ohm 1/4watt resistor in between the regative connection from the dash to headlight.

Enjoy.
Thanks for the detailed how to with ST Link utility address data changes. Worked perfectly for what I think is an old Bird ESC
. Ive flashed tons of others just doing the dashboard but old Bird ES esc is the first Ive had trouble with where the esc needed to be flashed. Thanks again!!

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